I'm very excited about JenJoi's Cosmetics success. We opened our Etsy shop on December 28th, 2014 and already have:

72 product sales
18 admirers
150+ views and 30+ favorites (average per day)
5 Star reviews

We currently have 60 individual products for sale on the site including:

Loose mineral foundation, eyeshadow, bronzer, and blush
Liquid foundation
Cosmetic ingredients (kaolin clay, micas, iron oxides)
Eye cream
Pre-orders for our beauty box subscription coming soon!

I'm gearing up to add a few new products over the next month or so. In addition, our shop will offer our new beauty box subscription by March 2015 offering products from hundreds of Etsy shops.

New Product Announcements!

We are pleased to announce the following new products (should be posted by mid-February):

Loose Mineral Color Correctors (green, violet, and yellow)
Concealer (matching all loose mineral foundation tones)
Blush (more blush options including peaches and apricot)
Lipstick! (I'm so excited about the lipstick)
Shaving cream
Men's products (aftershave splash)
Massage Oil
Peppermint toothpaste
Perfume Solids
Acne treatment
Un-petroleum jelly

In addition, we will offer all of our loose mineral products in pressed form! I know many consumers simply will not use loose mineral products. I have to tell you, I'm not a fan of pressed makeup. You waste so much product! Loose mineral products last longer and provide better coverage, and longer wear. But, I do not want to loose out on this customer base. In addition, I want to provide pressed cosmetics without all the synthetic fillers and preservatives.

I'm also going to start some new research and development for whipped foundation. I think this will be my first video blog. I have to figure out how to best video tape myself making the product (I'm not tech savvy with You Tube and video editing software). Whipped foundation is so amazing. I just hate how many unnecessary ingredients are added to these products. So...we shall see if my new recipe makes the cut. It will be my giveaway for the month of February. Stay tuned! January's giveaway is buy a $0.99 eyeshadow and receive a free sample of our eye primer. Check out our eyeshadow colors here.

I thought it would be informative and enjoyable if I shared some insight into how I go about selecting ingredients for research and development of new products. Also, I found a couple wonderful articles about functional ingredients in cosmetics, bath, and beauty products while researching alternatives for dimethicone. Mass retail cosmetics, bath, and beauty companies rely heavily on synthetic ingredients because they are cheap and easily accessible. I had an incident earlier this week where I posted a comment on another bloggers website about keeping parabens away from the eyes. The blog was about some makeup remover wipes. These wipes had three different preservative systems. I just couldn't understand why anyone would want to put three preservatives anywhere near their eyeballs. I recommended using coconut oil or another carrier oil with a cotton pad. This really works. Zero preservatives or harsh additives. This blogger went off about the minimal risks of parabens. The whole time I was thinking why would anyone need wipes dipped in synthetic preservatives to simply wipe off their mascara?

Functional Ingredients

and All-Natural Alternatives to Synthetic Ingredients

References:

Organic Glow

Haven Organics

There are 5 types of functional ingredients in cosmetics, bath, and beauty products;

emollients
humectants
emulsifiers
surfacants
preservatives

These two references above provide detailed information about each type of ingredient and also examples of natural and synthetic options. I want to expand on this information and provide links to websites where you can buy these products for your own use. Also, I want to refer you to some amazing products available on Etsy using all-natural functional ingredients. I figured it would be useful information for my readers and I need to research this information myself for my new product line up. I'm sure there are plenty of DIY enthusiasts out there who are ready to make some products of their own!

Let's start with emollients!

Emollients

The purpose of emollients is to prevent dryness and protect the skin. Water is considered the most effective emollient but it doesn't work very well in cosmetics, bath, and body products because it evaporates quickly. This is one emollient mass retailers love to use because (well....let's keep it real) water is super cheap! When you have a minute, checkout your shampoo, conditioner, body wash, and cleanser. Is water a main ingredient?

Natural emollients offer several benefits for your skin. The best way to test this theory is to think about how your hair or skin feels after a shower or bath. If your shampoo and conditioner use water as the main ingredient, your hair and skin probably feels dry and stripped when you leave the shower or bath. If your products top ingredients include all-natural oils and butters (jojoba, avocado, rosehip, shea, and cocoa) your hair and skin are going to feel nourished, soft, moisturized, and fabulous! I noticed this difference almost immediately when I tossed all my bath and body products and replaced them with goats milk soap and all-natural conditioners using shea butter, coconut oil, and other natural carrier oils. I also saved serious money every month simply using a goats milk bar soap with a natural loofah and conditioning my hair with an all-natural conditioner. I'll share some product choices with you now!

Goat's Milk Soap

Tea Tree Goat's Milk 100% All Natural Soap Bar ($3.00)

by Samantha's Suds

I am all about the lather when it comes to my soap. Bar soap has received a bad name over the years because of nasty, cheapo products that dry out your skin and leave you feeling stripped of all your skins natural oils. Well, bar soap has come far my friends. Our wonderful DIY enthusiast and all-natural organic skincare companies have given bar soap another chance at huge success. Let's take a look at the ingredients in Samantha's Suds goat's milk soap:

Ingredients: Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Safflower Oil, Glycerin (kosher, of vegetable origin), Goat's Milk, Purified Water, Sodium Hydroxide (saponifying agent), Titanium Dioxide (mineral whitener used in opaque soaps), Sorbitol (moisturizer), and Soy Bean Protein (conditioner).

Notice how the tops ingredients (ingredient concentration is based on the order of products listed, based on FDA regulations) are all-natural oils. Water is the 6th ingredient. Soap doesn't really come together without adding a little bit of water. The titanium dioxide also helps with the consistency of the soap. My favorite ingredient is the tea tree oil. I have problem skin and tea tree helps prevent breakouts and soothes my winter eczema. Samantha offers over 20 variations of goats milk on her Etsy shop. $3 is an absolute steal! I promise if you invest in a loofah (see picture) and buy a high-quality bar soap, you will never go back to buying expensive body and face wash. Ever! I buy one bar for my body and one for my face. Make sure you find a place to keep your soap nice and dry in-between uses. Also, you are saving on waste. No plastic bottles! You can also wash your hair with this soap. Serious! You won't be disappointed.

All-Natural Hair Conditioner

All Natural Raw Organic Handmade Moisturizing Shea Butter Hair Cream. Made with White and Yellow Shea Butter, Babassu and Emu Oils ($5.99)

by Hairority

I am super excited about this hair cream. Let's take a look at the ingredients:

Ingredients: Babassu Oil, Emu Oil, Rosemary Extract, Sesame Oil, Shea Olein, Argan Oil, Avocado Oil, Yellow Shea Butter, Raw White Shea Butter, Raw Unrefined Coconut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Aloe Vera Juice

Amazing, all-natural goodness. Babassu oil is a favorite of mine. Direct from Bulk Apothecary, babassu oil is: soothing, protective, conditioning and moisturizing to the skin. Babassu Oil penetrates quickly without a greasy after feel like many other oils. This oil is a common additive in products that are formulated for dry scalp and itchy skin. Rosemary extract is soothing and helps eliminate dandruff. This conditioner is filled with wonderful oils and butters and zero synthetic ingredients. Look at the price tag! Only $5.99. Also, you only need a little bit because the ingredients are super concentrated. Zero water. I know some of my readers may shy away because of the emu oil. I understand. I have a second recommendation to accommodate!

Penetrating Deep Conditioner ($3)

by Hair and Body Pastries

Do you know what cracks me up? Mass retailers use synthetic ingredients to keep their products cheap (in most cases). They fill our bath and body products with water and synthetic ingredients, and then add a few drops of the "good stuff" at the end of the ingredient list to make the product look high-end. Here we have "Hair and Body Pastries" selling an amazing conditioner with quality ingredients for only $3 (2 oz.)! 8 oz. is only $10.

Let's take a look at the ingredients. The first, burdock root with slippery elm is especially useful in treatments for dry, itchy and scaly skin. I found this ingredient on Mountain Rose Herbs website if anyone is interested. The initial ingredients are essential oil extracts and all lend medicinal qualities to your hair and scalp. I also researched marshmallow root and I'm super excited about trying this powder out in some r&d projects. Here's a great blog about the benefits for your hair. The #1 benefit of marshmallow root for your hair is slip. This stuff is awesome at getting rid of tangles and knots in the hair. In addition, it's soothing and relieving for those suffering from eczema, psoriasis, and dry scalp. Marshmallow root is also rich in vitamins and proteins. This is what I call all-natural and functional ingredients!

Ingredients: Burdock Root with Slippery Elm, Marshmallow Root, Nettle and Horsetail, Aloe Vera Juice, Vegetable Glycerin, Honey Quat, BTMS, Shea butter and Cocoa Butter, Rice Bran Almond Castor and Jojoba Oils, Agave, Vitamin E, Cocoa Powder, Optiphen

This conditioner is 100% vegan-friendly! I have dreads and only condition my hair once a month. I have to be completely honest. I use oil. Straight up coconut oil to condition my hair. Also, jojoba oil. I've read in several blogs, online chat sessions, and website comments that people hate coconut oil. I just do not understand it. I understand being allergic. If that's the case, I'm sorry. Otherwise, coconut oil is my end game for everything moisturizing. I pay $6.00 for a huge jar that lasts over 2 months. It doesn't go rancid or mold. It melts at 76 degrees and that's how I use it for conditioner (in a spray bottle). I keep some in the fridge for my face and hands. Also, I make a lot of my bath and body products with coconut oil including my easy to make kaolin clay deodorant (I'll talk about this next blog). I'm all about simplicity. I recommend mango butter as a substitute for those who do not like (or have an allergy) to coconut oil. Mango butter is also a very effective emollient.

Just to touch base (long blog, I know!)...We are still talking about emollients. I introduced you to some basic products (goats milk soap and hair conditioner) that use all-natural emollients. One last point, the articles I read in regards to functional ingredients had this to say about all-natural emollients: our bodies recognize and metabolize all-natural emollients over synthetic ones because of their enzymes. These natural ingredients are biodegradable. I don't know about you, but I'd rather stay away from ingredients that are not biodegradable. They can accumulate in your body over time!

Synthetic emollients, like dimethicone, trap the skin. They are occlusive (coat the skin) like plastic wrap on your dinner leftovers. These synthetic emollients make it impossible for your skin to breathe or respire. This leads to clogged pores and overall skin irritation. My favorite example is Lubriderm lotion. Let's take a look at the ingredients:

Water, Mineral Oil, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Cetaryl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Fragrance, Citric Acid, Ethylparaben.

The first two ingredients are emollients: water and mineral oil. We've talked about water as an emollient. Mineral oil is an occlusive ingredient (as discussed above) which clogs pores resulting in acne and blackheads. In addition, it contains saturated hydrocarbons that accumulate overtime. This bioaccumulation has serious outcomes, especially in pregnant women (see this article). Dr. Frank Lipman's article goes into a lot more detail about mineral oil. Let me just say this. Mineral oil offers zero benefits in cosmetics, bath, and beauty products. Studies have shown certain grades of mineral oil have serious contaminants and human carcinogens. It just drives me mad how Lubriderm gets away with their marketing ploys. We will talk about cetyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, and parabens a bit later. This lotion is just filled with crap. Just put it to the test. When you use Lubriderm lotion it feels great at first. Then, your skin starts to dry up and you put on more and more lotion. Hmmm...

Let's move onto our next functional ingredient!

Humectants
Humectants are what keep our skin moist. They are natural phospholipids that help restore our first layer of skin, protecting it from bacteria and pollutants. I should reinterate, this is what natural humectants do. Examples of natural humectants include: lecithin, pro-vitamin B, and glycerin. Synthetic humectants work much like synthetic emollients. They create a film over your skin trapping all the dirt and grime. Literally, suffocating your skin. Here's a list of synthetic humectants:

Propylene Glycol, Ethylene/Diethylene Glycol, PEG compounds (eg Polyethylene Glycol), Synthetic alcohols (eg Glyceryl Coconate, Hydroxystearate, Myristate, Oleate)

I'd like to share one of my favorite ingredient websites with you. Lotion Crafter has everything you could ever need for your DIY projects. I mean everything! Let's take a look at their humectants:

Shealoe

Aloe Thix ($7.50 for 1 pound)

I love aloe vera. If you need to thicken a product and provide skin moisturizing benefit, this is it. I'm toying with the idea of adding it to my whipped foundation!

Glycerin (vegetable-derived) ($3.95 for 11 oz.)

considered a humectant, solvent, and emollient, glycerin is amazing! It will dry out skin in hotter climates.

Shealoe ($4.75 for 8 oz.)

that's right...the perfect combo of shea butter and aloe vera to create the worlds most amazing humectant! It's non-greasy and soothing. Perfect for lip balms and lotion.

Before I start recommending products, I want to finish introducing our functional ingredients: emulsifiers, surfacants and preservatives. Then, I promise to make some more amazing Etsy recommendations!

Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers are super important in many cosmetic formulations. They blend together and hold ingredients that normally do not mix. There are two types of emulsifiers: physical and actionable. Natural physical emulsifiers include plant waxes (candelilla, carnauba, jojoba rice bran), xanthan gum, and quince seed. An actionable emulsifier simply includes the act of shaking multiple ingredients together prior to using the product. I do this with my all-natural bathroom deodorizer. It contains water, coffee fragrance, and an all-natural preservative. I shake it prior to every use and simply spray. Other examples of physical emulsifiers come from nuts, berries, and leaves.

I was really curious about quince seed extract. I could only find one listing to buy this stuff online! Making Cosmetics is a wonderful website for cosmetic ingredients. But this extract is not cheap! The only sizes available are 8.8 lbs. ($290.40) and 22 lbs. ($624.36). I looked on Etsy and only the actual seeds are available. My next two favorite emulsifiers are rice bran wax and xantham gum. I prefer to steer clear from waxes. Even all-natural plant-based waxes. Waxes of any kind block the skins natural ability to breathe and release toxins. If I do use wax, I only use 1-3% in my cosmetic formulations. Rice bran wax is my #1 choice.

Rice Bran Wax (Shop Nature's Garden) 16 oz $11.99

I recommend checking out the various emulsifiers available on Nature's Garden website. There are several all-natural alternatives including:

stearic acid
corn starch
acacia gum powder
arrowroot powder
cream of tartar
emulsifying wax
also our next product, xantham gum

Xantham Gum (Shop Nature's Garden) 16 oz. $29.99

I love xantham gum because it's a food-grade product.
Even though it's more expensive than rice bran wax, you only need .1-1% to thicken your products.
When adding fragrance or essential oils to your products, it may water them down. Xantham gum will thicken it back up.

Synthetic emulsifiers include: Alkoxykated Amides (eg TEA, DEA, MEA, MIPA compounds), PEG compounds, Sorbitan Stearate, Laurate, Palmitate, Oleate, Ceresin, Silicone, Isopropyl Stearate

Surfactants (Surface-Active-Agents)

I'm really looking forward to talking about surfactants. This functional ingredient dissolves oils and holds dirt in suspension to be rinsed away. It's most commonly used in skin cleansers, body wash, and shampoos. Some examples of all-natural surfactants include:

castile soap
yucca extract
soapwort
quillaja bark extract (soapbark)
apple

I just discovered the apple surfacant while conducting my research. Another wonderful all-natural supplier, The Herbarie.

Apple Surfactant (16 oz. $16.95)

Product characteristics straight from The Herbarie:

-Extremely mild, natural surfactant for hair and skin care
-Derived from apple juice amino acids
-Ultra-mild and fabulous skin feel. Gentle for face.
-Compatible with most ingredients
-Ready to use, neutral pH
-Anionic
-Preservative free
-Biodegradable

I cannot wait to try this out! Recommended usage is between 5-50%. I also love soapbark and castile soap. Some examples of synthetic surfactants include:

Sodium or Ammonium Lauryl or Laureth Sulphate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl or Cocoyl Sarcosinate Cocomidopropyl Betaine, TEA (Triethanolamine) compounds, DEA (Diethanolamine) compounds, MEA (Monethanolamine) compounds, PEG (Polyethylene Glycol) compounds, Quaternium -7, 15, 31, 60 etc, Lauryl or Cocoyl Sarcosine Disodium Oleamide or Dioctyl Sulfosuccinate

These synthetic ingredients are harsh, stripping, and irritating to your skin. Some even have carcinogenic properties (especially those ending in -eth). You can actually feel your hair and skin shrivel up after you use a product that contains these ingredients. Do you ever wash your hair and immediately reach for the conditioner because you cannot stand the way your hair feels? Your shampoo probably contains one of the above ingredients. Don't fret! I'm going to share some amazing all-natural alternatives. Lets dive into our last functional ingredient: preservatives.

Preservatives

In one of the articles I read above the author stated that synthetic preservatives are toxic by nature. This is because they are formulated to keep our cosmetics, bath, and beauty products preserved for years and years. Finally, she says something along these lines...the decaying process is natural. Products shouldn't last forever. I couldn't agree more! Seriously, who needs a shampoo, conditioner, body wash, foundation, eye cream...that lasts 10 years?

Preservatives help prevent against bacteria and mold and extend the shelf life of products. Some examples of all-natural preservatives include:

tea tree
thyme
grapefruit
bitter orange
phenoxyethanol
germaben ii
optiphen plus
liquid germal plus

and my new favorite....

Rosemary Antioxidant Extract (4 oz. $44.50)

I am a huge fan of rosemary. This preservative system offered by Mountain Rose Herbs is organic and super concentrated. The high levels of rosmarinic acid infused with olive oil will extend the shelf life of your cosmetics, bath, and beauty products. I'm switching from phenoxyethanol to this preservative system in all of my cosmetic products.

Synthetic preservatives include:

Imidiazolidinyl Urea (formaldehyde donor, releases formaldehyde if temperature over 50 degrees Fahrenheit), DMDM Hydantoin (also contains formaldehyde), Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl Parabens, Benzalkonium Chloride, Chloromethylisothiazolinone and Isothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butylated hudroxyanisole (BHA)

My honest opinion on preservatives is pretty straight forward. You shouldn't use them unless it's absolutely necessary. If you do use them, pick an all-natural alternative. Nobody needs a foundation that lasts 10 years. 2-3 month shelf life is totally acceptable for Etsy shops. In retail, 6-12 months is perfect. Most all-natural preservative systems offer a 12-24 month shelf life. That's plenty. Another wonderful factoid I found in my research involves using airless pumps. These help prolong shelf life naturally and keep contaminants out of your bottles. We use them for our liquid foundations, eye creams, and serums.

Summary (Functional Ingredients)

I started my journey into functional ingredients looking for an alternative to dimethicone for my all-natural shaving cream. I found an amazing article(s) offering details about all-natural and synthetic ingredients. I wanted to know more about where to buy these all-natural alternatives and help recommend excellent Etsy products to my loyal readers and customers. So let's get down to some product recommendations using all-natural emulsifiers, surfactants, and preservative systems!

Shea Butter Bar in a Push Tube $6

I am not a huge fan of lotion bars. They get super icky and nasty. Magnum Opus Soap offers a wonderful shea butter bar in a push tube. You can easily use it without making a mess and the tube is easy storage. The ingredients are amazing:

Shea butter, Bees wax, Rice bran oil, Sweet almond oil, Fragrance oil

She also offers scent-free and the following options:

Meyer Lemon , Summer Melon, Sandalwood-Bergamot, Lavender, Garden Gate - rose and sandalwood

I am more inclined to go with an essential oil over a fragrance oil. Unless, the fragrances are not synthetic. Also, those who prefer zero beeswax, I'm sure this lovely shop offers custom orders. Also, there are zero preservatives! That's fine. There is no water in this product. Most lotion bars only last a couple months with regular use.

Calendula & Chamomile Soapnut Soap $6.23

Have you heard about soapnuts? They are one of the most diversified products ever invented by nature! I use them for laundry detergent. Living Naturally Soap offers amazing bar soap and laundry soap! The above Calendula & Chamomil soap bar uses the following ingredients:

Ingredients: Pure Refined Olive Oil (Olea Europaea), Organic Soapnut Liquid (Sapindus Mukorossi), Chamomile Essential Oil (Anthemis Nobilis), Calendula Oil and petals (Calendula Officinalis)

Those who are not big fans of coconut oil and lye will never look back after trying soapnut products. The main ingredient is olive oil and the chamomile and calendula is excellent for fighting bacteria, calming skin irritations (eczema, sensitive skin, acne-prone skin), and perfect for babies. Soapnut liquid is super mild. If it gets into the eyes it doesn't sting like lye-based soaps. You'll notice there are zero preservatives in this product. The average shelf life is 12 months. I use up my soap in 2 months max.

Etsy Rosemary Antioxidant Extract ($8.95 3ml)

I was so happy when I found this preservative on Etsy! Dewberry's Herbal Apothecary, LLC runs a very successful business on Etsy with over 4.7k in sales and 5 star feedback ratings. You only need 0.02-0.10% for your cosmetic formulation. If anyone else decided to formulate using this preservative, let me know how it works out!

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Cheers!